To start of my equipment I will use a steady tripod, being that I’m in the shoot I won’t be able to check for shakes so can’t afford to have any of the shots to be wobbly or the whole composition will be like that.
Next, I will have to adjust the white balance using the kelvin setting. If I leave the camera on Auto White Balance then the colour will keep changing due to the lighting.
Doing this will keep the temperature constant throughout the entire time I shoot.
Because the sky is naturally more over exposed than the foreground I would normally use a setting called Exposure Comp/ Automatic Exposure Bracketing.
By using this setting the camera will take 3 separate images. One under exposed, one correctly exposed and one over exposed. (shown by the image above)
By capturing 3 separate images at different exposures I can combine them in Photoshop or Lightroom to get a perfectly exposed image, also known as a High Dynamic Range (HDR) image.
Unfortunately because I am using an Intervalometer Remote the images will be taken at different times so this technique will not work for me.
Another way I could get around this is to use a Neutral Density Graduated Filter (pictured below)
This would do exactly the same job but without any editing in post.
Unfortunately I do not own one of these but I will defiantly be using one for any future time lapses.
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